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Silicone-free oil thickeners for personal care formulations
  • Background
  • What we're looking for
  • What we can offer you
  • Who we are
  • Q&A
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Background

Oil thickeners are materials used to increase the viscosity of oils in personal care formulations. They enable the transformation of liquid oils into gels, balms, or sticks, supporting the creation of stable, anhydrous products. By modifying rheological properties, oil thickeners help suspend insoluble particles and active ingredients, ensuring uniform distribution and preventing sedimentation. They also influence the texture, spreadability, and application characteristics of the final product. 

 

Common oil thickeners include natural waxes, fatty alcohols, polymers (such as polyamides or polyesters), cellulose derivatives, and silicone-based materials. Silicone thickeners are widely used due to their ability to deliver a lightweight, smooth, and non-greasy sensory profile. Selection of oil thickeners depends on compatibility, regulatory requirements, and the desired sensory profile. However, increasing consumer preference for natural or silicone-free formulations, along with evolving regulatory and environmental considerations, has created a need for alternative oil thickeners capable of delivering comparable performance without the use of silicones.  

 

Oil thickeners suitable for anhydrous or oil-rich personal care formulations that can replicate silicone-like aesthetics while aligning with natural positioning and regulatory expectations would enable the development of skin products that meet both performance and market-driven requirements.

What we're looking for

We are looking for an oil thickener that can serve as an alternative to silicone-based oil/anhydrous thickeners, with a preference for solutions derived from natural sources. The primary intended application would be leave-on skin formulations, where sensory performance and aesthetics are critical. The ideal solution may be liquid or solid in form and should deliver sensory and functional benefits comparable to those provided by established polymeric and polyamide-based oil thickeners, using these materials as performance benchmarks based on mechanism of action.

Solutions of interest include:
  • Amino-acid based gelators and peptide-inspired networks
  • Biobased polymers and polymer-like rheology modifiers
  • Crystalline lipid structurants (e.g., waxes, fatty alcohols, hydrogenated oils, ester waxes)
  • Low-molecular-weight organogelators (e.g., fatty-acid based gelators, castor-derived gelators, lecithin organogels)
Our must-have requirements are:
  • Function as an efficient gelling agent (less than 10%) for anhydrous formulations
  • Work at lower temperatures (~90°C)
  • Natural Origin Index (NOI) >80%
  • Colorless and odorless
  • Sample available for evaluation and testing upon request
Our nice-to-have's are:
  • Mimic silicone-like sensory attributes (e.g., slip, smoothness, non-greasy feel)
  • Stable in a variety of formulations with a desirable rheological profile
Acceptable technology readiness levels (TRL):
Levels 3-9
What we can offer you
Eligible partnership models:
Supply/purchase
Benefits:
Compensation
We will conduct technical evaluation of submitted solutions and may engage with selected suppliers on further assessment, qualification, and potential commercial supply opportunities.
Expertise
Engage with technical experts from BASF.
Facilities and Services
Materials will be evaluated for performance in desired applications.
Who we are

As a global chemical company, we operate in diverse markets with varying requirements. To ensure responsible conduct and maintain our license to operate, we are guided by our core values and standards. These values shape our daily actions and foster respectful relationships with colleagues, customers, and partners.

Our teams are committed to putting health and safety first, making sustainability a part of every decision, and meeting strict compliance and environmental standards. We embrace diversity—in people, perspectives, and experiences—and promote open feedback grounded in honesty, respect, and trust. We see setbacks as opportunities to learn and improve.

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Q&A with BASF

The Q&A is now closed.

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Q.
your key rheological objectives for anhydrous, leave-on systems, the benchmark silicone thickeners you would like us to match (INCI and usage level),and how you need the Natural Origin Index (ISO 16128) to be calculated?
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